Spring Summer 11 TRENDS

Men's fashion trends are few and far between; yes, a lot of women's trends are eventually adapted to the men's market, but if men's hair trends prove anything it is that classics will always rule when it comes to men's fashion. Unsurprisingly it's no different when it comes to men's suits.
While suiting and formal-wear trends for men aren't seasonal (unless, of course, you're talking about the weight of the cloth) and play out over several years, 2010 and 2011 continue the change in men's suiting that rose to the fore in recent years. For the foreseeable future the trend in men's suiting revolves around the classics, but more specifically modern takes on the classics. A good suit for this decade will take the best elements from the peak eras of men's suiting (think the formality of the Victorian era, the savoir faire of the 1930s and the skinny detailing of the 1960s) and apply them to a modern silhouette.

So what elements should you look for?

The Cut of the Suit
In men's suiting there's a move away from the ‘skinny boy' suit, but that's not to say slim is out altogether or that a boxy cut has replaced it. Instead, think of a cut that takes would appeal to a military officer, one that accents a sense of the masculine through three key silhouette elements:
a slim waist
slim trousers

As for the individual cuts?

Three piece suits.
Let's face it: the waistcoat has long been a dead item for most men, but thanks to resurgence in its popularity in men's street wear the suits' waistcoat is back with vengeance. Well, not quite vengeance but it's back, it's subtle and it's classic. And that means that in 2010/11 we'll witness the return of the three-piece suit, and I couldn't be happier. That's because the three-piece suit has been one of the most under-utilised parts of a man's wardrobe over the last forty years.

The three-piece in 2010/11 is all about cohesion; forget the mismatching style prevalent in the early parts of the 20th Century and in the 1980s. The return of the three-piece means that the waistcoat has to be conservative and, thus, in the same fabric as the suit's other two pieces. If you do want to venture outside the realm of three matching pieces, stick to a similar colour palette and avoid any pattern except for stripes; you may want to pair a pinstripe black suit with a pinstripe charcoal waistcoat.

On selecting the perfect three-piece suit I'd recommend looking for a waistcoat whose V shape breaks somewhere between the sternum and the base of the rib cage. I've seen three pieces from the likes of Giorgio Armani which don't sport the V shape and finish just under the collar, these are going to be a lot harder to wear and ignore the conservative subtlety this revival depends upon. Moreover, such a large waistcoat won't convey a slim waist as effectively as one with a deeper neck.

As we've returned to the classics with double breasted and three-piece suits, then it should come as no surprise that classic cloths, patterns and fabrics have also returned. As an added bonus, adding classic cloths to your wardrobe allows for the inclusions of fabrics and colours that you mightn't otherwise have as an option (and helps you steer away from having the typical men's wardrobe: black, grey, navy).
While the following are classic suit patterns perfect for 2011 and beyond, don't forget that you can also work these same cloths into components of men's suiting without making it an actual suit; that is, sport coats, blazers and trousers.
• Houndstooth
• Herringbone
• Houndstooth
• Pinstripe
• Rope-stripe
Of course, nothing is more classic or ‘formal' than the dinner suit. But its rules vary greatly to semi-formal and fashion suits so be sure to read our separate articles on FASHIONABLE DINNER SUITS/ TUXEDOES which additionally focuses its pairing with street wear.
Yes, suits in 2011 are all about classic elements but there are still plenty of factors away from the trend elements that you have to contemplate. Consider all of the following before making an investment in a suit this year.
The amount of buttons a single-breasted suit jacket should sport is really a matter of personal preference, but let me offer the following.

Double Breasted Suits and Sport Coats.
If there's one cut that I'm glad I've been able to return to my wardrobe for this decade it's the modern, double-breasted suit. Those of you old enough to remember the last time the double breasted suit or sports coat was in (the 1980s through to the mid 1990s) may remember the boxy cut it inevitably came with. Fear not, that cut is gone (and if you're still sitting on double breasted suiting from that era, take it off to the tailors to refresh its life). In its place is a cut that pairs broad shouldered with a slim waist, a cut that defies what double breasted suits were originally designed to do: hide a plump figure. Instead their now designed to accent and to heighten the perfect masculine shape: the V-shaped, well worked body.

Cotton Sports Coats.
Take a break from heavy jackets and enjoy the light and airy feel of a cotton-blend blazer. A cotton-blend blazer is perfect for a hot summer day, and for a breezy summer night. The lightweight fabric allows you layer lightly and adds an instant chicness to any outfit. A cotton-blend blazer is a centerpiece for any man's Spring 2011 wardrobe, and with good reason! You can find a variety of colors to choose from whether you want to neutralize an outfit with a camel colored blazer, or add some color with a red blazer...you really can't go wrong! A tip, if you're wearing a darker hue for a blazer opt for a lighter pant. If you're wearing a lighter jacket then go for a darker pant. You want your outfits hues to compliment each other.

One Button
A single button falls into the realm of a fashion suit; it's been a trend before and will go out again. And there's a reason for it: within reason, the more buttons a suit jacket has the taller a gentleman looks (yet another of the visual tricks a suit can perform). So it stands to reason that a single-buttoned suit does the opposite to conveying stature. So unless you're over 6′ 2″, I'd suggest you avoid a single-buttoned suit.

Two Buttons
My preference for a modern suit. It conveys height, slims the waist, and fits perfectly within the realm of fashion and classicism.

Three Buttons
Very much a look of the 1990′s, it's making a come back and has been seen amongst the tailored wares of Tom Ford and Ralph Lauren's Purple Label. Three buttons convey a greater sense of height than a two button suit, but are harder to pull off. I own ONE, and wear it in a fashion-forward sense. Definitely one for the more confident amongst us.

Four Buttons or more
Please don't. I'm yet to see any four button suits offered in 2010/11 which truly impress me, fall within current men's trends, and will figure in as a good investment piece beyond this year.

THE SHOULDER
A lot of suit terms can be mixed and matched, but I'm a fan of something I've always called the ‘British rolled-shoulder.' Others might call it something else, but it is effectively where the shoulder padding finishes. A lot of Italian and US based designers prefer to have the shoulder padding finish precisely where the bone does. A British rolled shoulder has the padding extend over the shoulder and roll down into the sleeve, and figures into men's suiting as another visual trick - this time designed to make the shoulders seem broader and the arms better built.

VENTS
This one is really simple: choose a suit with two side vents. The only time to break this rule is if you're buying a dinner suits.
When tailored correctly a suit jacket with side vents is always preferential due to the perfect silhouette it can provide.

LAPELS
Since the mid-20th Century notched lapels on a suit have been the staple, but as we return towards classic tailoring in 2010 we'll see a return of the peaked lapel. Last at the fore of fashion in the 1920s, the peaked lapel is another of the great visual elements of a men's suit: it helps convey the much coveted V shape.
That said, notched lapels aren't out of fashion and both are an equally good investment.

WOOL
The clear favourite for suits, but pick carefully. I've seen some very expensive wool suits fall apart within a few years due to the cloth being a terrible blend. My personal preference is towards super-wool, with a thread count somewhere between 100 and 120. I tend towards 100 as it's often perfect on both cold and hot days. If you live, however, super 100's will provide you with the greatest durability, as well as a transeasonal weight. Don't be fooled by retails offering super 150's at 1000+. There are some cheep super 150's fabrics out there and often this yarn count is a sales pitch only.

COTTON
Cotton can make a beautiful suit, but make no mistake: it's best only as an informal or fashion suit and, unlike wool, is going to crease like anything. I find it best in colours which aren't black and grey, tending towards navy and tan. If you're looking for a good cotton suit in a modern, slim classic then look to Ralph Lauren's Black Label.

LINEN
So many men simply don't understand linen, and it's often those of us who have had the luck of a childhood in Europe that may ever truly appreciate it. But a linen suit can be perfect for those hot, humid summer days. Shy away from it in browns and wear it in colours such as white and cream and you'll stand out in a crowd of otherwise dull suit wearers.
One final note on linen: don't be scared of its penchant for creasing, it's all a part of the fabric's charm